
Mass production, Consumerism and the rise of an ethically conscious society
‘I believe that the simple act of making something, anything, with your hands is a quiet political ripple in a world dominated by mass production...and people choosing to make something themselves will turn those ripples in to giant waves.’ Faythe Levine.
Many crafters involved with the DIY culture are concerned with the political implications of mass production. It discourages individuality and self sufficiency, increasing the growth of the throwaway culture and the excessive consumable lifestyle.
Although a proportion of crafters create their work only through a desire to make, many are in fact aware of the counter culture forming due to the growing DIY movement. The re-appearance of craft in Britain has occurred, in part, because of this strong reaction to mass production on the high street. It is also effected by the increasing ethical awareness of the consumer.
‘ Craft is political. We’re not just trying to sell stuff. We’re trying to change the world. We want everyone to rethink corporate culture and consumerism.’ DIY Trunk show Craftifesto.
This is an example of the way in which progressive crafters are thinking. The recent rise of consumerism in high street stores has taken over. Cheap fashion encourages a throwaway culture that society is becoming accustomed to. This does not invite an individual reaction to fashion or to trends. The consumer is buying into a style and is not being encouraged to create one for themselves. As this becomes more apparent, the disconcerning shopper may realise that he or she no longer has a unique style that is distinguishable from the rest of society. This is where the DIY movement can offer something new.
The ‘craftifesto’ of American based ‘DIY Trunk show’ highlights the ethics and ideas behind the craft movement.
They believe that ‘craft is powerful’. Buying handmade is more rewarding than buying mass produced high street goods.
That ‘craft is personal’. Receiving a handmade gift made by some one you know has greater sentimental value.
‘Craft is political’. This relates to corporate culture and the unethical production of goods.
Lastly, ‘craft is possible’. This invites everyone to enjoy craft. It encourages beginners and professionals to create their own. It also fosters friendships and communities between crafts people.
In sum, this manifesto illustrates the essential theories that originated with the DIY craft movement. It also clarifies the differences between this new exciting culture and the craft world that existed before it. This new craft movement embraces everyone, it encourages the beginner. It instills a feeling of community and friendship between the makers and the consumers. It is a rebellion against consumerism.
‘Formula fashion stifles the growth of alternatives, pushing down prices and making it uneconomic for small makers to compete in the market.’ Kate Fletcher.
As Kate Fletcher points out, consumerism is at fault concerning the difficulties faced by the craft maker. Fletcher brings to our attention how our own relationship with fashion and textiles has changed over recent decades. We have nearly gone full circle from the domesticity of the 50’s, making our own clothes and re-using those of our siblings, to buying items that we are not invited to alter in any way. It is only now that we are starting to see the re -emergence of a trend for making things ourselves.
‘Ready made garments appear to offer us the promise of something better than we could make ourselves. But when we buy into this perceived perfection we forgo an opportunity to learn how to make things and become better skilled.’ Kate Fletcher.
High street fashion does not encourage us to foster our creative abilities. It entices us to buy into a style that we feel we could not recreate ourselves. We are beginning to wear a uniform of the masses and this is exactly what DIY craft is standing up against. The increasing growth of the craft scene is a reaction to this. Crafters are offering a way to move against this homogeneity of corporate consumerism and to welcome a renewed sense of individuality.
It is evident how this new trend for craft has developed. The consumer has become aware of ethical issues on the high street but also wishes to express themselves with what they wear and what they have in their homes. As Debbie Proctor, founder of ‘Wrappers’ states, ‘everyone is fed up with having the same things. Globalisation may mean lower prices but in its wake comes a loss of individuality.’
As a result of not finding that gift or accessory on the high street, the consumer is looking on the internet. This will give them a wealth of choice, introducing them to sites such as Etsy, a handmade market place. Crafters are answering this need and gradually shoppers are using these websites as their first choice for handmade goods.
‘Etsy is the first site I visit if I want to buy someone an original (as in, often, literally one of a kind), lovely, bargainous present. Everything about Etsy rocks.’ India Knight. The Times.
Etsy, an online craft market place, established in 2005 by Rob Kalin was a response to the growing amount of crafters in the USA. It was essentially somewhere to sell his work. Now it is the place where many crafters and designers sell their work worldwide. It is democratic way for ordinary people to buy and sell artwork. Kalin hopes Etsy will ‘promote sustainable products and begin to change peoples consumption habits...When you buy something new from Etsy, there’s a story behind it’. Financial Times.
This is an attraction of buying handmade. The story behind the product, who made it, and why, all contribute to the personalised gift.
Etsy is not only one of the largest craft online marketplaces, but it offers a custom made service called Alchemy. The shopper can request an item and crafters can bid to produce it. This service is changing the rules of consumerism in todays society.
Other websites offer similar concepts. Threadless, an apparel website based in the United States offers designers a chance to see their work printed onto t-shirts.


Images from Threadless.com
‘What sets Threadless apart is the way it determines which t-shirts it sells.’ Mark Tutton for CNN.
Threadless encourages designers to send in artwork which will be posted on the site. The users of the site then vote for their favourite designs. This not only ensures that the designs will almost definitely sell, but it again turns consumerism on its head.
As a result, the consumer gets a well designed t-shirt, often designed by established illustrators such as Jon Burgerman. The print will be a limited addition, therefore maintaining the individuality sort after by the modern shopper.
World of Good is a online store created by Ebay. The site is similar to Etsy, and Ebay itself, but sells fair trade goods from around the world. Selling products such as crafts, stationary and fair trade foods, World of Good is embracing the needs of an ethically conscious society. It shows a definite change in corporate consumerism if a consumer giant such as Ebay has realised the potential of cornering a part of this market.
Political opinions about consumerism lead to an increased awareness of ethical issues. This awareness has increased in recent years with emphasis on the carbon footprint, sustainable materials, and the realisation of continued slave labour. A culmination of these issues has made the consumer conscious of what they are buying. Shoshana Berger of Readymade magazine agrees. ‘Not only are people recognizing that mass produced stuff is unimaginative, they’re also feeling guilty about supporting unfair labor practices.’ Times U.S.
Where the consumer is able, they are choosing to buy ethically. This has had a huge effect on the DIY craft movement.
Abi Silvester, editor of website craftycrafty.tv believes that ‘a renewed focus on sustainable living has opened many people’s eyes to the possibility of making their own clothes or recycling.’
Recycling and making clothes is obviously not the only answer to ethical issues. However it gives the individual a sense of resourcefulness and as part of a larger scale protest could have damaging effects on growing consumerism. The public are wanting to buy from the crafter. They can see how and where the products have been made. Buying at craft fairs cuts down on the carbon footprint and promotes a community spirit. The consumer is happy with their purchase knowing they have supported cottage industry and have shopped with a clear conscience.
The financial and economic state at present has the media talking of the ‘credit crunch’ and the ‘recession’. Now was never a better time to become involved with the DIY culture. The consumer still wants to shop, but they want quality over quantity. Handmade items are an alternative to expensive branded gifts.
The public is eager to try craft for themselves. World of good website reported that the intake for sewing classes was on the rise. Designer labels are now being replaced by quality yarns.
‘But these days my treat of choice comes from a yarn shop in north London, not from the Chloé concession in Selfridges, and if I want to give someone I really care about a present, I may actually — gasp! — make them something....So: feeling poorer, feeling greener, minding more, realising that you don’t have to be a professional to be able to make things with your hands and that making things with your hands is unexpectedly and wonderfully rewarding.’ India Knight. Times Online.
So it seems that thrift and DIY can be rewarding in many ways. Not only does it support small business’, it promotes a greener lifestyle, is economically wise, and in turn benefits the consumer.
It is true to say that making your own is not always the cheapest option. Wool is costly and buying handmade is thought to be the equivalent of buying organic. Buying handmade is not a cheap alternative. It is however the ethical alternative. It allows the consumer to invest their money in something that will last. The product is well made and unique. A handmade gift will be appreciated and cherished.
If the handmade way is not always the cheapest and easiest way then why are we seeing such a growth in todays society. In Freddie Robins words, ‘So are we revolting against mass production and the loss of individuality? I hope so.’