The new wave of craft has bought with it fresh ideas about feminism and activism. Not only are crafters enjoying their practice, they are also enjoying the opportunity to actively make a difference. Crafting offers an opportunity for making political and social comment. When crafting, the individual can be rebelling against feminist conformity, contributing to charitable causes, or offering an alternative to mass production. Whatever the reason, this new generation of crafters not only have a conscience, but are seeking a greater importance for their work.
‘ Each time you participate in crafting you are making a difference, whether it’s fighting against useless materialism or making items for charity...it is possible to go beyond banners, email petitions and chants as ways of fighting for a cause you believe in. You could have a knit-in, paper- mache puppets or teach a crafty class for kids.’ Betsy Greer.
Greer coined the term ‘craftivism’ while studying a Masters degree in London. It was an idea that incorporated her love of knitting with her role as an activist. Individuals that were disillusioned with rallies and demonstrations, or believed them not beneficial, could put their skills to good use. Greer joined a craft group and in return discovered she was still fulfilling her desire to promote activist causes.
‘ I started thinking about ways to knit for the greater good, and I realized that right now, right here at this very moment in time, the act of craft is political. In a time of over ease and over use and over spending I can take back the control over how my life is lived.’ Betsy Greer.
With new theories about knitting (and crafting) for the greater good, there has become a surge of interest in crafting for charitable causes.
A growth of such craft groups is largely due to the internet, thus allowing a wider range of people to access and become aware of the ideas that these groups support. Charitable crafting groups have emerged naturally as a result of craftivism.
‘Mother Bear’ is a project that is supported by Greer. The charity donates hand knitted bears to children infected with HIV or aids.
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Pictures taken from http://www.motherbearproject.org/
Melissa Dettloff of Crafters for Critters sells handmade items online, the proceeds contributing to animal rescue organisations.
‘..there was such a good response that I kept it going. It started in early 2004 and now we have raised close to $20,000 and have benefited over twenty organisations.’ Dettloff.
Dettloff, a crafter in her spare time started Crafters for Critters as a one off idea to raise money for animal rescue. The idea of supporting a charity in this way was so successful that charities have developed in similar ways all over the internet. Afghans for Afghans, Warm up America and Blankets for Canada are to name but a few. These organisations encourage the crafter to produce work for a worth while cause or purpose.
Crafting charities are where activism works hand in hand with craft and practice. The crafter can become actively involved with the charity whilst pursuing their own work.
Activism within the indie craft movement does not always take such a literal form. Many groups offer the crafter an opportunity to demonstrate political opinions through a diverse range of events or communities.
Cast Off, a knitting group based in London allows knitters to be subversive. Rachel Matthews, one part of the initiative behind Cast Off, knits objects such as woolen grenades. These and similar items feature largely in her book ‘Knitorama’. Knitting such items forces the knitter to question what their work is about. It raises the profile of the craft and declares that it does not remain a domestic pastime, dispelling any connotations with unsightly knitted garments.
Cast Off is about the freedom of knitting, and the freedom to knit in any location without judgement. The members are activists for their own cause. They stand up for the right to knit in public.
(Pictures from Cast Off website)
‘Sometimes we are overtly political. When we went on anti war marches our banner said ‘Drop stitches not bombs”. But by knitting in public we are saying something too. By doing it in public we are challenging what is seen as nerdy.’ Rachel Matthews. The Independent Review.
Another example of using craft as a political vehicle is Sonja Todd of London based company Threadymade.
‘I did a cross stitch protest outside Downing Street for the campaign for electoral reform. I got members of the public to stitch a sampler saying, ‘Make my cross count.’ Sonja Todd, Guardian.
Stitching and knitting are peaceful but thought provoking ways of getting a point across. It is a non aggressive rally of sorts, with care and time taken to convey a message into stitched form.
With the domestic connotations related to crafting, it would be impossible to avoid theories concerning feminism. Domestic crafting, originally a woman’s role in the home, was abandoned with the first wave of feminism. Women wanted to break free from their stereo types. They wanted to buy new and pursue careers that left little time for craft within the home.
The trend of the indie movement has made craft ‘cool’. It is no longer seen as out-dated, but as a way of expressing ones style and ones skills. Crafting has skipped a whole generation but now we are seeing a return to tradition. We are learning the skills from our grandparents or we are joining classes that teach, nurture and encourage craft.
Third wave feminists are open minded toward this progression, They believe true feminism allows women to pursue craft without judgment. Women should not have to defend their interests.
Debbie Stoller, founder of Stitch and BItch and feminist magazine Bust feels strongly about the way that knitting and crafts are perceived.
‘It seemed to me that the main difference between knitting and, say, fishing or....basketball, was that knitting had been traditionally done by women. As far as I could tell, that was the only reason it had gotten such a bad rap.’ Debbie Stoller.
Stollers views on feminism reflect a wide demographic. They encourage knitting and craft but still remain loyal to their feminist ideas. When asked why the popularity for knitting had grown she commented, ‘its a craft, its very pleasurable, its satisfying , its a great way to spend your time. Its just a fun thing. Our grandmothers have always known this and we’re just learning it again.’
This is true of Stollers groups Stitch and BItch. The groups promote knitting as an enjoyable, satisfying pastime that can foster friendships. Feminist view points aside, the fundamental reasons behind this renaissance of craft is enjoyment. Beliefs and ideologies may influence the crafters work or their original motivation for taking part, but, in truth, it is their love of the craft that ensures their commitment to every project.
The return to domesticity and looking after ones house has been encouraged by the uprising of handmade, household wares. The range of products available to the consumer for their home, from both the high street designer and the handmade seller, has become vast in recent years. Textile designers such as Cath Kidston have cornered a niche in the market that encourages house proud women to embrace their domestic instincts. A compromise has been offered to the career women. Females such as Kidston and Martha Stewart allow the working woman to have a home that appears full of homemade goods and domestic bliss, but in truth is only the product of discerning shopping and good taste.
(pictures from Cath Kidston website)
But these trends have grown and women have once again begun to appreciate and practice craft for themselves. Kidston has recently published a book giving detailed patterns and instructions on how to create the ‘look’ for your own home.
With the growing cost of products and the looming implications of the carbon foot print, women have taken it upon themselves to embrace the lifestyle of their grandmothers.
Activists and feminists aside, as Glenna Matthews, professor at the University of California suggests; ‘escaping from their own monotonous day to day life may be an activist venture for some woman.’
